Many older homes have windows that are not anywhere near as energy-efficient as today’s modern windows. Consequently, replacing old single-pane windows with newer efficient models can save yourself a considerable sum of money in heating and cooling costs each year. When you have to replace windows in a stucco house, you probably won’t have to damage the stucco in order to remove the old window and add the new one, since the new replacement window will fit inside the framework of the old window.
Cut a line from the paint on the interior of the window in which the window stop meets the window frame using a utility knife. Then slip the end of a flat pry bar between the stop and the framework and gently pry out the window stop. Repeat on the other side of the window. Establish the two stops aside.
Lift the bottom sash from the window frame and set it apart.
Eliminate the parting bead from between the top and bottom sash on a single side of the window frame with the flat pry bar. This parting bead will not be re-used, so don’t be worried if it becomes damaged. Duplicate with all the parting bead on the other side of the window. Then pull the very best window sash, and set it apart.
Eliminate the outer stops in the window frame. In case any jamb liners, weights or springs were installed on either side of the frame, then remove and discard them as well.
Insert a 3/8-inch drill bit to a power drill, and drill three holes in each side of the window frame in which the parting bead was installed; just one high, one in the middle and one reduced. Drill a comparable group of holes in the header and sill.
Insert the spray tubing of a can of expandable foam insulation to each of the holes and fill the pockets until the polyurethane seeps from any cracks around the window. Fill all twelve holes with wax insulation, then wait at least six hours to get the foam to set, and trim away any foam that has seeped from the framework.
Place a tube of outside window caulking to your caulk gun. Cut the plastic tip in a 45-degree angle with a utility knife and apply a good bead of caulk against the border of the casing around the window frame.
Set the foundation of the replacement window to the window frame, and tilt the window to position against the outside casing. Drive a 2-inch wood screw through the upper border of the left- and also right-side of the jamb to hold the window in place. Open and shut the sashes to test the performance of the window.
Rank a level against the sides of the window to check the window to get plumb. Insert wood shims under the bottom corners of the window as required to make the window unit plumb.
Slide a window shim between the window jamb and the framework in each mounting hole place, and drive a wood screw through the mounting hole in to the frame. Repeat for every window mounting place until the window is secure. Examine the operation of the sashes once again to ensure that they move freely.
Cut off any protruding shims with a sharp utility knife. Then apply a bead of caulking around the outside of the replacement window in which it meets the framework, both on the inside and outside.
Position the left window stop that you removed from the old window between the window and the frame on the left side, and bend it into place with a finish nailer. Duplicate with the right-side window stop before touching up any paint on the window stop to coincide with the surrounding paint.