Stomp or Textured Drywall and Ceiling Techniques

Drywall texture provides a tactile quality that could mimic other wall coverings, like plaster or adobe, and because it changes the reflectivity of the walls, so it may make a room more comfy. Texturing materials aren’t exotic — you normally use the same joint compound you use for taping seams, and the resources are common and affordable. If you’re searching for an uncomplicated technique, you may create an intriguing pattern using a stomp brush.

Stomping Essentials

The main ingredient to get a stomped texture is drywall joint compound thinned to your paintable consistency with water — it still has to be thin enough to spread with a roller but stiff enough to keep on the ceiling. You need two tools: a paint roller with a hefty nap skin and a stomping brushthat consists of a wooden handle with stiff, long bristles that are usually ordered in an oval or rectangle. Drywall texturing is cluttered work, so make certain to move furniture from the room and cover the floor with drop cloths before you begin.

The Way To Stomp

Once the taping is completed and the walls hardened, you start the stomping process by spreading a coat of joint compound on the wall or ceiling using the paint roller. Joint compound dries slowly, so it’s fine to cover the whole wall or ceiling before stomping, avoiding streaks and voids as you would when painting. You do the actual stomping by repeatedly dabbing the stomping brush to the moist coat of mud; clean the brush periodically in water to prevent clumping. The sum that you overlap determines the overall look of the texture pattern and also is an issue of taste.

Knocking Down the Texture

The activity of a stomp brush leaves sharp points from the texture pattern that you might choose to flatten. The ideal time to do this is following the joint compound has had a chance to stiffen, or about an hour later stomping. Holding a drywall knife with its blade almost parallel to the surface and running it gently over the texture flattens the sharp points and leaves a flattened, plasterlike surface. Use light pressure — you don’t wish to push the mud to the depressions left by the stomp brush and then erase the pattern completely.

Alternatives to Stomping

In lieu of stomping, drywall finishers frequently spray texture using a manual-pump sprayer, let it stiffen and then knock it down using a drywall knife. This creates an irregular pattern similar to that created by a stomp brush, but it takes less stuff, and it leaves part of the drywall vulnerable. This technique demands a more complete taping job because badly taped seams are more visible. Additionally, it is common practice to apply the mud to get a knockdown pattern using a drywall knife, scraping the knife gently on the drywall to leave bigger, better-defined islands of material that may be later flattened with a second pass of the knife.

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How to construct a Waist-High Planter

A waist-high flower planter can deliver huge impact on a deck, deck or front porch. By constructing your planter from a lightweight hypertufa mixture, the large planter will be easy to move, even when filled with potting soil and plants. Hypertufa was developed by European gardens to mimic porous and lightweight volcanic tufa stone. A large, waist-high wicker laundry basket produces an effective mold to the planter and can leave a basket weave design pattern on the finished planter. Start looking for an inexpensive used wicker laundry basket in a thrift shop because the basket will not endure the procedure.

Wear rubber gloves and mixture 10 pounds of Portland cement, 15 lbs of vermiculite and 15 lbs of peat moss in a wheelbarrow with a trowel.

Add 1 cup of water and then stir it in the cement mixture with the trowel. Repeat, adding water 1 cup at a time prior to the hypertufa mixture is the texture of cooked oatmeal.

Grab a handful of this hypertufa mixture and apply it to the inside of a wicker laundry basket. Duplicate, to cover the inside bottom and walls of the basket with a 2-inch layer of this hypertufa mixture.

Push your finger through the bottom layer of hypertufa to make three drainage holes in the planter.

Permit the hypertufa mixture to dry and cure for 48 hours in a covered area, like a shed or garage. Cut the wicker laundry basket in the hypertufa mixture with wire snips. The waist-high planter is ready for filling with permeable soil and plants.

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Aluminum Pan Roof Repair

A modern aluminum pan roof can offer several years of maintenance-free provider, but older roofing can eventually show signs of leaking or corrosion. In addition, exposure to years of direct sunlight can fade or damage painted finishes and lead to unsightly flaking or peeling. Fortunately, any of these problems can be repaired by an experienced do-it-yourselfer equipped with everyday tools.

Loose Seams

When installed correctly, a metallic pan roof is held together by galvanized fasteners folded tightly into leak-resistant neoprene washers. If the screws or nails become loose, water will seep through the space to the surface beneath. In many cases, you can resolve this issue simply by tightening the screws or banging the nails back to place. If the fasteners or the adjacent roof show any signs of corrosion, replace them with new galvanized fasteners and neoprene rubber washers, and then apply a clear sealer over the screw or nail head.

Leaky Flashing

Your aluminum pan roof can be damaged by wind uptake, expanding winter ice conditions along with the nesting of wild animals. Any of these situations can cause the roof panels to pull away in the flashing, which channels rainwater to the surfaces beneath. Scrape out any debris or dirt in the affected area before applying a generous coating of roof cement or a urethane adhesive/sealant. In most circumstances, the urethane will dry and cure more quickly. Apply weight to the newly sealed region for about 24 hours or as directed by the manufacturer’s instructions.

Metal Corrosion

If the roof has been installed using old-fashioned lead washers or non-galvanized nails or screws, those fasteners will corrode over time and that corrosion could spread beyond the hole. If that’s the case, you should plan on replacing the original fasteners to stop widespread corrosion. Use a stiff wire brush to remove all the visible corrosion, and fill some soft spots or tiny holes in the aluminum with a epoxy patching compound.

Failed Coating

Contemporary aluminum pan roofs incorporate a factory applied finish, however that protective coating will surely fail before the aluminum itself because of sunlight exposure and also the repeated expansion caused by heat and cold cycles. Signals of failure include fading, chalking, flaking and peeling. You can repair the issue using a new coat of elastomeric paint in a cool roof color. These coatings are far less prone to premature failure in temperature variations, and in addition, they reduce summertime heat transmission into the living room beneath.

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