Making Homemade Candles Last Long

Making your own candles isn’t just economical, it’s also fun. Whether you are making candles for emergency use or to add a decorative element to your living room, durable candles are especially beneficial. A few strategies and techniques can be followedboth while you’re making the candles and as you’re burning them–to ensure the production of long burning candles which provide secure, low-cost light for hours to come.

Ingredients Matter

In order to make the best candles, you need to begin with the best ingredients. Soy wax, which can be made from hydrogenated soybean oil, and beeswax will be the two longest lasting keratin. While beeswax typically lasts more, it’s more difficult to work with because it’s an extremely high melting point. Soy wax is cheaper and easier to work with as an ingredient. An added benefit of choosing beeswax or soy wax – they are environmentally friendly as they are renewable. Paraffin, another popular candle component, is constructed from oil, and is bad for the environment.

Just Say Freeze

Once you’ve completed the candle-making process, there is a simple way to extend the life of the candles – freeze them. A wick can be complicated to light in case it freezes; by wrapping the wicks in aluminum foil, it is possible to protect them from damage. After you guard the wicks, cover the candles carefully in plastic wrap, then pop them in the freezer before use. Even just another hour or two will assist the candle burn more because the wax will burn at a lesser rate.

Salt of the Earth

Table salt has many uses, and here’s one more to increase the record – extending the life of the homemade candles. While this process may appear complex, it is able to make your candle last up to twice as long. First, light the candle. After the wax has melted and pooled under the wick, blow it out but be prepared to move quickly before the fluid solidifies. Sprinkle a pinch of table salt at the flux fluid, making sure it mixes with the wax and doesn’t just sit on the surface. With the added salt, the wax will melt far more slowly. By repeating this process with each use it is possible to always extend the life of the candle.

Burn Baby Burn

Candles that burn unevenly also burn quickly. Many people don’t understand this easy trick that applies to store-bought as well as homemade candles. By maintaining the wick trimmed to 1/4 of the inch, the candle will burn evenly and last longer. Additionally, if you place a candle in a drafty location, it won’t burn evenly. By maintaining your candles from prying areas, such as doors and windows, you can not just improve safety, but also extend the life of the candles for a longer, more enjoyable burnoff.

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How to Repair & Repaint Steel Doors

A steel door is durable and secure, and it doesn’t rot or warp like wood. However, over time, the finish can dull or you might change your home’s exterior and decide to provide your steel door a fresh coat of new paint. You may run into issues if your door is dented or contains holes caused by rust. The good thing is that most homeowners can do these repairs and refinish a steel door themselves.

Place the end of a screwdriver under each hinge and then tap with a hammer to pop out the hinge pins and remove the door from the frame. Put the door flat, such as on a set of saw horses.

Wear protective clothing, a painter’s mask, safety glasses, and rubber gloves before you begin refinishing your door.

Remove the screws securing the door’s kick plate using a screwdriver. Scrape away loose parts of paint using a paint scraper and mud any rust patches down to the bare metal with 60-grit sandpaper.

Smooth the sanded areas having 150-grit or finer sandpaper and wipe away sanding dust with a tack cloth.

Wash the door with light soap and water to remove dirt, grease and debris and then rinse thoroughly with clean water.

Sand dents and the area surrounding holes or scratches down to the bare metal using coarse sandpaper, such as 80- to 150-grit. The coarse sandpaper will leave scratches, but they produce a surface that will hold your stain material.

Wipe the door using a tack cloth to remove sanding dust.

Implement auto-body stitch into the damaged areas utilizing a plastic putty knife. Auto-body filler is a two-part resin that must be mixed prior to use. Follow the manufacturer’s directions for this procedure, and once the pieces are mixed, spread the filler into the damaged area and press it smooth until the stain is slightly higher than the surface of the door.

Let the putty cure for about half an hour and then sand the stain, first using 80-grit sandpaper on a rubber sanding block, then 150-grit paper, sanding until the stain is almost level to the steel.

Finish sanding with 400-grit wet/dry sandpaper wrapped around a sanding block. Sand the patch till it is level with the surface of the door, feathering the edges.

Scrape loose paint from the door using a paint scraper. Wear just the paint that’s loose. Feather the edges using 150-grit sandpaper to smooth the finish. Scuff sand the rest of the door with fine-grit sandpaper to prepare it for cushion.

Apply a latex or oil-based primer specifically formulated for metal, using a brush or a sprayer.

Sand the dried primer gently with 150-grit sandpaper to remove high spots and drips and also to scuff the surface of the door.

Apply at least one complete coat of latex or oil-based enamel paint to complete the door by means of a roller or a brush.

Let the paint dry overnight and then apply a thin bead of silicone around the top and sides of your kick plate. This may seal the plate so that moisture doesn’t flow behind and cause rust.

Put the plate on the door so the screw holes line up over the existing mounting holes at the door and reinstall the screws.

Reinstall your door at the frame, replacing the hinge pins in the top and in the bottom.

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Painting Over Old Painted Pine Boards on Walls

Completing a pine wall with paint may give your room a completely different feel. Natural knotty pine is rustic and a little bit state — but when the rest of your decor doesn’t mesh with this, you don’t need to scrap your personality and start buying primitives. You may create above the pine, even if it’s been previously painted. Your biggest decision aside from color is whether or not you would like to get the knots to show through the paint. A few handy tricks can disguise the knots so well that only you will know that pine resides under the newly painted finish.

Wash the walls with a powerful cleaner, such as trisodium phosphate. Wipe the walls down to remove all traces of cleaner and let the wood dry.

Determine what type of paint is currently on the walls so you know what type of paint to work with. Rub a rag soaked with denatured alcohol in an inconspicuous spot. If a paint comes off on the rag, then the paint is latex. If no paint comes off, then the walls are covered in oil-based paint. It is possible to apply latex primer and paint over oil paint, but you can’t use oil primer and paint over latex paint. In this case, you’ll need to use latex.

Sand the walls to rough up the surface of the paint to prepare the timber to get latex- or oil-based primer.

Wipe away dust using a tack cloth.

Turn around the ground, windows, doors and baseboards to protect them from primer and paint. Remove curtain rods and switchplates using a screwdriver. Place plastic or canvas dropcloths on the ground to protect it from drips and spills.

Scrape wood filler from the container using the corner of the putty knife, and apply it in a thin layer to some cracks or bigger knots that you want to hide on the walls. Smooth the wood filler with the long, flat edge of the putty knife, scraping away any surplus that’s left on the timber. Let the wood filler dry in accordance with the manufacturer’s directions. If you want the knots to demonstrate through the painted finish, then do not use wood filler.

Sand the spots that have wood filler to ensure the surface is smooth. Wipe away any dust with a tack cloth.

Employ a primer coat to the walls, and allow it to dry in accordance with the manufacturer’s directions. Apply a second coat to guarantee the pine boards are adequately primed. If you’re using oil-based primer, then you might need to let the primer heal for an elongated period of time — check the manufacturer’s info for paint-drying particulars.

Paint the walls with the latex- or oil-based colour of choice. Let the first coat dry in accordance with the manufacturer’s directions and apply a second coat. Once the walls are almost dry, then remove the painter’s tape — this ensures you do not pull off any paint when you remove the tape.

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How to find Hard Water Stains In the Inside of Glass Vase

The white stains that accumulate on the inside of a flower vase are hard water deposits, and white vinegar dissolves these deposits. You may want to scrub, though, and that may be difficult if the vase has a narrow neck. Use rice for a scrubber so that you don’t have to try to stick your hand in the vase.

Eliminate Stains with White Vinegar

The easiest way to clean hard water deposits on the inside of the glass vase is to fill it with vinegar ; let the vinegar sit for many hours and then pour it away. If some stains stay, wipe them off with a nonabrasive cloth before the vinegar has dried. Vinegar contains acetic acidthat has a low enough pH to dissolve the salts that cause the white stains.

Scrub with Rice

If your vase has a narrow neck and the stains aren’t coming out, you may be able to acquire a bottle washer in it to scrub them. If it doesn’t achieve all the contours of this vase, or the vase is quite fragile, pour into a few rice while the vase is still full of vinegar; then cover the top and shake. The rice acts as a gentle scrubber to remove the stains.

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