Category: Tropical Style

Pineapples (Ananas comosus) offer tart fleshy fruit and are grown in warmer tropical and sub-tropical areas such California and Hawaii. A single plant can produce fruit within many decades, with no requirement for replanting. But with prolonged growth of pineapples come the risks of the diseases which may infect them. As they are grown at ground level, several rot diseases are the most regarding with pineapples.

Black Rot

Black decay, also known as soft decay, types after harvest and is only an issue if the fruit has been damaged in some manner when picked. If this occurs, the decay may develop between the crop time and use by a consumer. Black decay is slow to establish and gets worse the more ripe pineapples are left unused. Dipping the fruit from thiabendazole or benomyl can help slow any growth of this disease.

Leaf Rot

Leaf decay in pineapples happens when planting stock is not kept dry. An excessive amount of air together with moisture causes the leaf decay, which might lead to a whole rotting of the fruit within two or three days. Spraying or dipping with dithane Z-78 will help control the disease in planting materials.

Heart Rot

Heart rot occurs before the pineapples ever leave the floor and is a result of improper soil drainage. The decay affects the central stem of the pineapple and produces a bad smell. Brown leaves are a sign that you might have heart decay on your own plants. Places that are affected need to be nourished with chlorthalonil or zineb in order to eliminate the problem.

Thielaviopsis Rot

Thielaviopsis decay is not always caused by any particular planting or handling issues; nevertheless, it will destroy a pineapple plant. It develops during the handling process, and the only sign you will have that there is an problem is that the skin will darken slightly because it is keeping additional moisture. Careful handling is the main way to prevent this disease, as well as maintaining the pineapples trendy.

Pineapple Wilt

Pineapple wilt happens when mealybugs are present and transmit the virus into the pineapple plant. Preventing this dilemma requires a therapy, not for your mealybugs, however for the ants which bring from the bugs.

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Sometimes called foxtail ferns, asparagus ferns (Protasparagus densiflorus) are perennial ornamental plants cultivated for their brushy, cylindrical stems and arching growth habit. They are most commonly grown inside due to their frost sensitivity, although they will also grow outdoors over U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zone 9. Asparagus ferns spread reliably in spring out from both fresh seeds and root divisions. But seed propagation works best for non-hybrid varieties, whereas root divisions must be utilized to spread hybrid cultivars since most don’t produce viable seed.

Propagating an Asparagus Fern from endothelial

Soak fresh asparagus fern seeds in water for 24 hours to soften the outer hull and prompt fast germination. Prepare growing containers prior to draining the seeds so seeds wo not have time to dry out prior to sowing.

Fill 3-inch starter pots with sterile seed compost. Moisten the compost and let the water drain off for 10 to 15 minutes. Poke a 1/4-inch-deep planting hole in the center of the compost. Put two asparagus fern seeds inside and cover them with extra compost.

Place the starter pots to a germination mat. Drape a sheet of plastic wrap over the pots, or cover them with a plastic propagation dome. Set the temperature on the germination mat to 85 F during the day and 70 F at night.

Moisten the seed compost whenever it feels dry to the touch. Water with a spray bottle to prevent disrupting the asparagus fern seeds. Do not allow the compost to dry out completely, but also don’t allow it to become boggy.

Watch for germination in about three to four weeks. Eliminate the weaker of the two asparagus fern seedlings from each pot if both seeds efficiently germinate.

Grow the seedlings near a big, bright window in which temperatures stay around 70 F during the day till they produce two sets of mature leaves. Transplant them to 4-inch pots filled with lightweight, acidic potting mix.

Propagating an Asparagus Fern from Divisions

Water the parent asparagus fern plant the night before dividing the root ball. Add water into the soil till it feels saturated from the top 3 inches. Let the water soak in overnight to ensure the leaf and roots are well-hydrated.

Remove the asparagus fern from its pot the subsequent day. Crumble off half of the soil from the root ball. Separate the fronds into equal parts and secure each part with a twist tie or a bit of string.

Cut straight down through the root ball involving the frond parts having a sharp, clean knife. Make certain each department has an identical share of fronds and origins since the divisions will not survive if too little or underdeveloped.

Pot each division in a 6-inch square pot filled with lightweight, acidic potting mix. Make sure that the base of the fronds is 1/4 inch over the surrounding soil. Water the soil mix to settle it rather than pressing it together with your hands.

Grow the divisions below the same warm, bright conditions like the parent plant. Water whenever the soil feels dry in the first two inches. Avoid over-watering since the newly severed roots are prone to mold and rot.

Transplant the divisions to your permanent planter once they show obvious signs of growth. Move them into a container that’s no more than 1 inch larger than their original pot.

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In coastal regions that drop into U.S. Department of Agriculture zones 8, 9 and 10, frost damage isn’t as common due to the warm winter temperatures. After spring planting begins, threat of frost has generally passed. However, cold weather may harm brand new plants and cause the decline of mature plants. Protecting tomatoes from winter’s chill will extend the life of the plant and increase crop production.

Symptoms of Cold Damage

Wilting is just one of several indications of damage from cold or frost. Newly transplanted tomatoes might have olive green and yellowing leaves, with a purplish bottom. Leaves on more based tomato crops will turn black and wilt. These blackened leaves might be pinched off, but leaves which are still green will recover if warmer temperatures return.

Protecting Tomatoes In Frost

Frost damage is simply a danger at the beginning of the growing season, and at the finish. If you planted tomatoes really early in the spring, or if you want to extend the growing season of the tomato plant into the fall, you can prevent frost damage with resources like blankets and technical covers. Although household blankets are a frequent tool used to protect plants, blankets can worsen the problem by trapping cool atmosphere beneath them if they become wet. Specialized garden covers don’t have this effect. Some covers have been designed specifically to absorb heat during the day and will radiate heat at night after the sun has gone down. Furthermore, some technical garden covers may be left draped over a plant for several days at a time. Checking nightly forecasts will tell you if those covers should be used.

Sheltered Locations Prevent Damage

If you’re a gardener who knows that you want to cultivate your tomato plants after into the growing season, container gardening may be suitable for you. Containers permit you to transfer tomatoes to safety on chilly nights. If you prefer to cultivate your tomatoes in the ground, you can plant your tomatoes near a wall having a southern exposure. Southern exposures get the daylight while sunlight is out, and at night the wall will radiate heat back into the atmosphere near the plant.

When to Plant

To avoid the chance of frost damage at the time of planting, tomato seedlings are best planted when soil temperatures reach 60 degrees Fahrenheit, notes that the University of Missouri Extension. It is possible to assess the temperature of the soil using a soil thermometer, available at nurseries and home and garden centres.

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Although the Baltimore oriole, best known of these species, generally stays east of the Rocky Mountains, the West hosts two kinds of this vibrant birds: Bullock’s oriole and the hooded oriole. Yearly, they come back to this region, starting in March, to build nests and raise families, after wintering in Mexico and Central America. All these songbirds may be elusive, and the chance to see one does not last long, as they migrate south again in August.

Migratory Habits of Orioles

Bullock’s oriole, named for a pioneering ornithologist, is plentiful in most of the U.S. western countries during breeding time from early spring until August. Nesting in the canopies of tall deciduous trees, the birds come to the ground searching for their food favorites, grasshoppers and caterpillars. During migration and winter, Bullock’s orioles may collect in small flocks, but other times, they usually forage alone. The hooded oriole, which takes its title from the male’s orange hood, downstairs in open areas with scattered trees, particularly palms. Once exclusive to this desert Southwest, hooded orioles, in recent years, have been expanding northward in California for breeding. Generally, they arrive during March and migrate to Mexico in August.

Oriole Attractants

Orange, the shade and the fruit, lures the birds. Since orioles prefer exactly the same nectar formulation as hummingbirds, hang an orange ribbon from the feeder so that it is easily seen. Orioles’ invoices are often too large for your own washing vents in hummingbird feeders, but specialized feeders for orioles are commercially available. Place cut orange halves on a branch or flat bird feeder. Orioles also like grape jelly, which is set from a dish or cup. Don’t conceal a feeder under the eave; put it in the open where birds flying overhead may spot it. Hang it near a water feature, if you have one. Orioles are attracted to the sight and sound of moving water. Maintaining up your feeders for two weeks after you see the final of this first group of guests helps you to attract any migrating stragglers.

Coaxing the Birds to Nest Nearby

If you aspire to encourage the orioles to perform more than pass through, put out pieces of yarn and string which they might use in nest construction. Orioles take pride in their own pendulous, basketlike nests, which they lay about the ends of slender tree branches. The female selects the nest site and weaves the nest, but the male can help out with securing it in position. Generally, the female then lays four to five eggs. The pendulous shape of this nest retains eggs and baby birds comparatively protected from climbing predators. If you do not draw in nesters the very first year, keep striving. Occasionally several seasons are required to locate a next.

Plants for Orioles

Bullock’s orioles primarily inhabit cottonwoods, willows and oaks. If your landscape involves these trees, your chances of drawing these birds are most likely good. Apart palm trees, the hooded oriole is partial to this dogwood because of its tiny fruits. Planting nectar-producing, flowering shrubs and vines, such as honeysuckle (Lonicera periclymenum), bleeding heart (Dicentra spectabilis), hummingbird bush (Dicliptera sericea) and trumpet vine (Campsis radicans), also offers orioles a treat in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 8 through 10.

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Nothing brightens up a dull fence over a bright, active border next to it. Plant a variety of plants to maximize interest and provide all-year-round shade. You may just access fence edges from one side, so shrubs, perennials, ground cover plants, bulbs and other low-maintenance plants are good choices for U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 8 through 10.

Shrubs

Hooker’s manzanita (Arctostaphylos hooker) is an evergreen tree which grows to a maximum of 4 feet. It tolerates drought well, and its pretty pink-white spring blooms are attractive to butterflies. Grevillea (Grevillea lavandulace) is taller, growing up to 6 feet high and 6 feet wide. It’s evergreen, has showy red flowers that attract hummingbirds from autumn through spring, and enjoys full sun to part shade. This tree tolerates poor soil, heat and drought.

Perennials

Perennials last for many years. Naked eriogonum (Eriogonum nudum) bears yellow, white and pink blossoms though July and August. It’s evergreen, with gray-green leaves, and grows up to 3 feet tall. Plant it in a sunny, mixed border, to give an airy effect. Sea thrift (Armeria maritima ssp. Californica) bears pink blossoms in spring. It tolerates drought well and rises to 6 inches wide and up to 1 foot across. This plant enjoys full sun. California fuchsia (Epilobium californicum) includes scarlet flowers through the summer and autumn that are attractive to bees, butterflies and hummingbirds. It tolerates part shade.

Ground Cover

Plant ground cover plants to minimize time spent weeding. Ceanothus (Ceanothus gloriosus) rises up to 18 inches tall and 16 feet wide. It’s dark green leaves and pretty light blue blooms that attract hummingbirds, butterflies and bees. It tolerates coastal winds well. Carmel Sur Manzanita (Arctostaphylos edmundsii “Carmel Sur”) includes light pink flowers through spring and winter, and its dense evergreen growth makes it an excellent ground cover plant. It grows rapidly and tolerates most soil types.

Bulbs

Bulbs are helpful in a mixed border since they require little upkeep, and many die down during part of the year, freeing up space for other plants. Firecracker blossom (Dichelostemma ida-maia) is a hummingbird magnet. Keep this plant dry over the summer and it will reward you with crimson, pendant, tubular blossoms in May to July. It grows best in full sun. Golden stars (Bloomeria crocea) is a sweet little deciduous plant with pretty, yellow, star-shaped blooms in spring. It grows quickly up to 1 foot higher.

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The walls which surround a courtyard act as supports for climbing plants. Several distinct plants use tendrils to climb up walls, although other plants grow upwards when trained on a trellis. Showy varieties of these plants add a decorative element to your courtyard. One of the best guides when choosing climbing plants is to pick one that matches the lighting conditions. Observe the sun pattern in the area where you want to place the climbing plant.

Flowers for Full Sun

Sunny sites deliver small cooling shade and must tolerate heat buildup. Blue passion flowers (Passiflora caerulea) grow best in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 6 through 9 with 3- to 4-inch-wide flowers throughout the summer on high-speed 10- to 15-foot-long stems. The blossoms comprise of white outer petals and narrow blue inner petals with rings of white and purple across the middle. The blossoms are followed by oval orange-yellow edible fruit. American wisteria (Wisteria frutescens), a North American native, creates clusters of pale lilac blooms throughout the summer in USDA zones 6 through 9. The fast-growing woody stems reach more than 30 feet along with the plant works well for south-facing walls.

Partial Sun Vines

Partially sunny sites still get about six hours of direct sunlight with a couple hours of cooling shade. “Ramona” clematis (Clematis x “Ramona”) grow large purple summer blooms covering woody vines with deciduous leathery green leaves. This fast-growing vine reaches 10 to 20 feet long in USDA zones 4 through 9. “Theta” narrowleaf Asiatic jessamine (Trachelospermum asiaticum “Theta”), which grows in USDA zones 8 through 10, creates dark green, needle-like leaves using silvery-green markings in the center. This 20-foot-long evergreen vine grows fragrant white blooms all summer.

Partial Shade Vines

Plants that grow in partially shady conditions require protection from hot afternoon sun that could hurt the plants. “Ritak” sausage vines (Holboellia latifolia “Ritak”) form clusters of purple spring flowers using a cinnamon odor and big lavender fruits follow the flowers. Dark evergreen leaves cover the 15-foot-long stems in USDA zones 6 through 10. This vine demands support to climb erect. “Tangerine Beauty” cross vine (Bignonia capreolata “Tangerine Beauty”) grows in USDA zones 6 through 9 using peach-pink, trumpet-shaped flowers with orange throats growing on 30- to 50-foot-long woody stems. This vine attracts hummingbirds into the courtyard.

Full Shade Plants

Shade-loving plants burn and wither when subjected to a lot of direct sunlight. These plants need the coolness of colour to survive and grow well on north-facing courtyard walls. Red Wall Virginia creeper (Parthenocissus quinquefolia “Troki”) grows best in USDA zones 3 through 8 using tendrils to climb up the wall and reaching 30 feet tall. This deciduous vine produces dark green leaves, which turn fire-engine red in the fall, along with small clusters of blue berries. “Taiping Shan” evergreen climbing hydrangeas (Hydrangea integrifolia “Taiping Shan”) creates glossy evergreen leaves along a 30- to 40-foot-long stem with early summertime white lacecaps made up of tiny blooms in USDA zones 7 through 10. This hydrangea blooms well in the colour.

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Elm trees (Ulmus spp.) , usually grown as shade trees, also work as both specimen and trees. Several elms show allelopathy, a procedure where roots, leaves or shoots secrete chemicals that kill or severely retard the growth of plants growing nearby. When selecting companion plants to develop alongside or beneath elms, be sure to know which type of elm you have. Decorative mulch may work best under elms using allelopathic trends. When selecting companion plants to get non-allelopathic elms, pick those are shade-tolerant and shallow-rooted.

Toxic Varieties

In regards to the plant fluids secreted by elms, not all trees in the genus are created equal. University of Georgia categorizes American Elm (Ulmus americana), which grows in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 3 through 9, as generating chemicals in its roots, stems and leaves that have the strongest allelopathic effect. By contrast, Chinese elm (Ulmus parvifolia), which grows in USDA zones 4 or 5 through 9, based on the variety, had just minor allelopathy through substances secreted from roots.

Summer and Spring Companions

When planting under or following non-allelopathic elms, like winged elm (Ulmus alata), which grows in USDA zones 6 through 9, or Siberian elm (Ulmus pumila), which grows in USDA zones 4 through 9, consider small daffodils, like “Tete a Tete” (Narcissus “Tete a Tete”), which develop in USDA zones 3 through 9, that flower before the tree leafs out. Virginia bluebell (Mertensia virginica), a perennial, spring bloomer with blue blooms will even boom under elm trees. Hardy in USDA zones 3 through 8, bluebells defy the toxins secreted from other trees and may succeed under the marginally allelopathic Chinese elm also.

Summer and Fall Planting

Shallow-rooted and comparatively low-growing, lily turf (Liriope muscari), which grows in USDA zones 5 through 10, features spikes of purple flowers in late summer through early autumn. Sometimes, the long, grassy leaves arch in rounded clumps. Lily turf thrives in the same consistently moist soil which most facilitates elms and tolerates the tree’s shade. Traditional hostas, or August lily (Hosta plantaginea), which grows in USDA zones 3 through 9, will also perform nicely alongside or beneath elms. The plants include broad, textured leaves and in late summer create substantial, scented, white blooms atop tall stems.

Planting Under Elms

When planting alongside or beneath elms, dig carefully so you don’t disturb the tree’s roots. Probe gently using a trowel or small spade to find planting holes which lie between roots. Tree roots also use the vast majority of the water and nutrients from the ground around them, so mulch nearby plants with several inches of organic matter to conserve moisture and block weed growth. If you experiment with companion plants beneath or close allelopathic species, like American elm, watch carefully for signs of toxicity like yellow leaves. Remove affected plants promptly.

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Growing a wholesome lawn from seed is a time-consuming and time-consuming procedure, regardless of what seeding method you choose. Hydroseeding, however, offers several advantages which make it a faster and easier alternative to conventional hand-seeding methods.

Hydroseeding Process and Cost

The hydroseeding process involves using a mixture of grass seed, wood-fiber mulch, fertilizer and binding agents, all of which are mixed with water to generate a semi-liquid slurry. A carpet contractor sprays the mixture onto the ground using a hydraulic sprayer. Hydroseeding differs from hand isolating or dry seeding in that each one of the components are implemented at the exact same time; together with the hand-seeding method, seed, mulch and fertilizer are implemented one at a time in many steps. Hydroseeding is more expensive than traditional hand seeding, but it’s considerably more affordable than installing sod.

Germination Time

Thanks to this absorbent fiber mulch and the binding agents which hold the hydroseed mixture together, the grass seed remains in continuous contact with the humidity in the mulch. That factor can help to speed seed germination, and hydroseeded bud seed sometimes germinates in less than one week. Hydroseeded lawns are typically ready to mow after three to four weeks, generally sooner than a seeded lawn.

Moisture Retention

The fiber mulch in a hydroseed mixture carries a significant amount of water across the seed, which means that a hydroseeded lawn requires less maintenance and care in terms of irrigation, at least initially, than the usual hand-seeded lawn. Even a hydroseeded lawn might not have the ability to retain moisture adequately during prolonged dry periods, however, and it could require supplementary irrigation. Additionally, the fiber mulch in a hydroseed mixture breaks down quicker than a traditional mulch like straw. So it won’t supply its moisture retention benefit through an entire growing season.

Erosion Resistance

The binders and fiber in the hydroseed mixture form a solid mat once the mixture dries, and this mat can help to prevent the seed from being washed off by water or blown off by wind. The solidified mixture also holds onto the ground surface, and it could help to stabilize the soil, limiting erosion.

Fertilizer Content and Mulch Decomposition

A hydroseed mixture contains fertilizers that are acceptable for the varieties of grass seed in the mixture. Since the fertilizers are applied at the time of seeding, they eliminate the need for the further fertilizer step that hand seeding demands, which erases a concern about the timing of that fertilizer application. After the hydroseed mixture’s fiber mulch decomposes, it also adds nutrients to the ground.

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When they’ve finished their reproductive lifetime, pine cones (Pinus spp.) Become Christmas decorations, gas for fireplaces or craft objects. Pines are. They have both male and female cones, with the cones plant seeds. As with other gymnosperms, the seeds differ from flowering plants because they aren’t surrounded by an ovary that makes a fruit for seed dispersal. The seeds lie in the open, wedged between the scales of the cone. Pine cones require two years to develop, eventually become fertilized and produce seeds, and it’s a complex story.

Formation Begins

In spring, generally higher in the blossom, the hints of some pine tree branches, grow small, green, female cones. They are thought to be derived from branches that have modified scale-like constructions rather than leaves. Each scale has two ovules on its hand, and each ovule develops into a seed. Because the cone is tiny, everything is on a small scale in this stage. Within the ovule, cell division occurs at a technical structure toward the base of the ovule known as the nucellus. It divides to form the female sex cell or gamete.

Pollination Occurs

Cones type producing pollen. Pollen floats on fluid near the tip of this scale on the wind into the female cone and lands. The scale tip opens marginally to let the pollen. The pollen rests there for a year. The female cone expands into a hard structure using the scales. Changes are occurring in the pollen and the ovule, although fertilization will not happen until the spring. The cells are dividing to produce the gametes, semen that is known as, and female gametes, known as eggs, that will unite to produce the seeds.

Fertilization Follows

Throughout the spring of the next season of this cone, the male and female gametes are ready. The pollen develops a pollen tube, which enters just a little hole at the ovule’s skin near its basal end, known as the micropyle. The semen goes, and the tube enters the ovule down the tube and to the ovule. Fertilization occurs when egg and the sperm fuse and the seeds grow. Each seed includes food to nourish it, in addition to the embryo of a young pine tree.

Maturation and Seed Dispersal

The female cone develops as the seeds grow, getting browner and larger. If the seeds are mature, the scales of the cone start to separate from one another, becoming sterile, dry and brown. You can see two seeds resting at the top of each scale When you look between the scales. There’s enough space for the seeds to drop out. Depending upon the species seeds are light and winged and have carried by the wind, or they are heavy and nearly wingless and have dispersed by creatures. A good example of a walnut with winged seeds, Afghan pine (Pinus eldarica) is hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 6 through 11. The Italian stone pine (Pinus pinea), which develops in USDA zones 7 through 11, releases large seeds used as food. They are an important element in cooking.

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Amaryllis (Hippeastrum spp.) Grows in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 8 through 10, where it flowers naturally outdoors in summer. Indoors, amaryllis can blossom in winter or early spring should you force the wax into ancient dormancy in autumn.

Time to Sleep

Amaryllis will continue to grow through summer and spring, after flowering is finished. The green foliage is accumulating nutrients in the bulb before it goes dormant, so leave the foliage in place and provide the amaryllis with full sun and moist soil during this time period. For winter or early spring bloom, gradually reduce watering the arc less in late summer and allow the soil to dry nearly entirely. The bulb is totally dormant when the leaves yellow and die back entirely, usually in late summer or early autumn.

Storage Tips

The amaryllis bulb does not require any water through its autumn and early winter dormancy period. Moisture at this time can cause the amaryllis to decay. Turn the pot on its side so that moisture does not collect if you keep it outdoors, or place the pot in a dark area indoors at around 40 to 45 degrees Fahrenheit. Keep the bulb in pressured dormancy for at least two months to ensure healthy blooming. Remove the bulb out of its dormant storage six to eight weeks before you want flowering to start.

Waking Up

An amaryllis will grow best in a small bud, however, the dormant bulbs needs repotting if the surfaces of the arc are touching the sides of the pot. Use a pot with bottom drainage that’s 1 to 2 inches wider than the arc. Water the ground so that it’s evenly moist and transfer the pot to someplace that is around 50 to 60 F with bright, indirect sunlight. Increase the temperature to 70 to 75 F following the leaves grow in, and continue to water the amaryllis when the soil surface feels dry.

Ongoing Care

After flowering, cut back the flower stems to 2 ins high but do not remove the leaves. You can continue to keep the pots indoors, or set them outdoors after frost danger has passed. Amaryllis needs full sun, moderately moist soil and fertilizer during the after-bloom and summer growing season when it is to blossom again following the next dormant period. Water every two weeks with a water-soluble fertilizer, like a 24-8-16 blend diluted in the speed of 1/2 teaspoon for every 1 gallon of water, or according to the speeds on the tag.

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